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Archive for the ‘humidity trays’ Category

These are the most common orchid questions I get and a link to my previous post in regards to their answers. I am also constantly updating each post that I have already completed, as I learn more information, so check back! My answers are not exhaustive but I hope they are helpful and if you have questions or comments please leave them. Or if you have a topic that you would like for me to research and post about, please leave that as well.

1. How much should I water my orchid? CLICK HERE.

NOTE: the most common mistake of any new orchid grower is over-watering an orchid which produces root rot and a myriad of other problems. Make sure your doing this right before anything else. This mistake and orchids not having a drainage hole is a deadly mistake.

2. How do I repot an orchid? CLICK HERE.

3. Why won’t my orchid bloom? CLICK HERE.

4. How do I tell the difference between a root and a spike? CLICK HERE.

5. How do I stake my orchids? CLICK HERE.

6. How much light does my orchid need? CLICK HERE.

7. Am I suppose to fertilize my orchid? CLICK HERE.

8. My orchid has either gnats, fungus and/or rot on it. What should I do? CLICK HERE.

9. Why are my orchid leaves turning yellow? CLICK HERE.

10. Is it okay to mist orchids? CLICK HERE.

Do you have a question? I love helping people out and answering questions!

Here is some info on that:

I welcome questions but overall if you read the other blog post first on watering, fertilizing, repotting etc. it helps both of us know what is going on a little more before you ask a question. I sometimes get people who are so excited about orchids (like me) that they ask a question before reading the other blog post and then I spend a lot of time linking those post in my answers :)

When leaving a comment or emailing – please answer these questions;

  • How long you have had your orchid?

  • What type of orchid it is – it’s fine if you don’t know

  • What the problem/question is

  • How are you watering it? How much and and how often?

  • Does it have a drainage hole?Please read this first * (see below).

  • Also a picture of your “troubled” orchid helps. If you can’t take a picture that is fine.

Orchids with NO drainage holes.

* This is a very common thing for florist to pot orchids in pots like these but it actually kills orchids. Orchids need to have total drainage or their roots smother and die as explained here..

Look for an inner pot inside the white one. If it has one take it out and discard the white pot. If it doesn’t -find a similar size pot with drainage and place it in there until the blooms fall of naturally and then repot it.

If you totally repot while in bloom the blooms may prematurely fall off because repotting shocks and orchid.

Once you have the orchid in a pot with drainage let it totally dry out before watering it again and then when you go to water – water it this way

Note: Here are pictures I took at local grocery stores for your reference. These are potted in non draining pots.


Hope that helps and let me know if you have further questions,

Hannah

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I have many orchids. I keep notes on them to stay organized. I keep them on humidity trays in a large window seat in my living room.

Here are pictures of the ones that I have the longest. This is not by any means all the orchids that cycle threw my house. I “save,” (I am given many orchids – that are done blooming and did not sell – by local florist) repot and giveaway a ton each year. So, check back because I will be updating this post, as they bloom. This post is mostly for me so I can see what my orchids look like through the years:)

1. Phalaenopsis orchid from Aldi.

2011

2012

2013/2014

2015 – bloomed 6/1/15 8 blooms

#2. Phalaenopsis orchid from Aldi.

2011

2013 – bloomed after almost three years of bring dormant!! Color changed to white – 5 big blooms

2015 – 7/19/15 – 5 white blooms
 

#3. Already bloomed orchid from Garden Heights

2013 (2/8/13) – 8 medium dark pink blooms – hasn't bloomed since 2011

2013 (12/1/13) bloomed 2x this year – 10 medium dark pink blooms – 1 stalk with two branches!!
#4. Already bloomed orchid from SHT 1/1/11
2013 (3/5/13) – 6 big dark pink blooms – hasn't bloomed since 2011
2013/2014 (12/21/13) bloomed 2x this year – 9 big dark pink blooms – 1 stalk with several branches!!
#5. My Rockstar Orchid!
2012 – 15 blooms!

2013 – 20 blooms!

2014 – waiting for it to bloom / it has spiked / I accidentally knocked the tip of the spike so it is taking longer

#6. Phalaenopsis orchid from Jesse for my birthday from Aldi on 10/29/11.

2011

#7. Phalaenopsis orchid from Trader Joes on 11/5/11.

2011

2013
2014
2015 – spiked 1/11/15 Bloomed 6/11/15 5 blooms

 

8. Phalaenopsis orchid bought from Trader Joe's on 11/28/11.

Has not bloomed since 2011
#9. Phalaenopsis orchid pink/white orchid from Aldi.
2011

2012

2013 – slightly lighter this year with 7 blooms

2014 – waiting for bloom / it has spiked

2015 – spiked 1/11/15 Bloomed 5/29/15 4 blooms

#?. Phalaenopsis orchid from Trader Joes on 11/26/11. Need to look into this…

2011 thru 2012

#10. 2013 – did not bloom
#11. Twinkle Oncidium orchid bought and bloomed in 2012.
2013 1-1-13
2013 (11-11-13) bloomed 2x this year!!
#12. Phapiopedilum orchid “Lady Slipper” from Bowood Farms
2012 – bloomed but didn't get a picture
2013
2014 – it spiked and waiting for it to open:)
2015 – 1/28/15 – changed mix
#13. Phalaenopsis for Mother's Day from Bowood Farms – this orchid passed away:(
2013
#14. Phalaenopsis orchid for Mother's Day from ProFlowers
2013
15. Phalaenopsis orchid from Schnucks for my bday 10/29/13.
2013
16. Cattleya “George Hausserman – Carl” from Hawaii for my bday 10/29/13
2013 – not in bloom when purchased – this orchid passed away:(
17. Blue Vanda “Prao Sky blue – Phathai” from Hawaii for my bday 10/29/13
2013 – not in bloom when purchased – potted in a vanda box that I will hang up
Hope that Helps,
Hannah
Feel free to leave comments or questions.

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Cymbidium orchids tend to have tall spikes loaded with flowers! This orchid has much smaller pseudobulbs that are topped with long thin leaves. These leaves gently drape to form an attractive foliage plant. Cymbidiums have a fantastic range of colors including; white, green, yellowish-green, cream, yellow, brown, pink, red, and orange. Their blooms can last for up to ten weeks!

These orchids are easy to grown indoors but need MORE light (they need to be in a bright window in your home) and MORE water then the popular, Phalaenopsis. Phalaenopsis orchids have big thick leaves that store water whereas Cymbidiums have long thin leaves that store less water and will need more “man-made” help. If you notice wrinkled pseudobulbs this generally indicates a lack of water. Because of this I highly suggest putting them humidity trays because of their lack of water storage and I would also mist them. Learn here how to make your own humidity trays.

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Like other orchids their blooms are triggered, naturally, by a combination of falling temperatures and reduced water. Their natural bloom season is during the winter. Cymbidium flowers grow in sprays, with spikes arising from new pseudobulbs every season

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Also similar to most other orchids, Cymbidiums prefer to be repotted shortly after blooming as the new growth is beginning to emerge. They enjoy a rich, loose, organic potting mixture and can be easily divided during repotting in the spring.

One difference between Cymbidium orchids and other types is that they can survive lower temperatures then most orchids.

Cymbidium Basics:

  • Water: water thoroughly then allow to dry out briefly between waterings.
  • Light: these orchids like bright light. You can place them near a bright window
  • Temperature: these types of orchids like a minimum temp of 40 degrees and maximum of 95
  • Growth Habit: these orchids grow new pseudobulbs every year. Ususally in the fall bloom spikes emerge from new pseudobulbs at the base. The older pseudobulbs will not bloom again but they continue to support the plant until they shrivel up and die.
  • Look for: New pseudobulbs in the Spring and Summer, Spikes in the Fall, Blooms in the Winter

Hope that Helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

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This post is going to be a “one stop guide” of everything I do throughout the year with my orchids and what's going on with them during this time. You can click on the various links throughout this post for extra advice on what to do.

Quick background on orchids to help explain the seasons –

Orchids grow in nature at a different rate than orchids sold in stores. This is because stores buy orchids from nurseries which have a controlled environment which “forces” orchids into bloom by speeding up natural cues synthetically. They do this by giving them year round light, temperature and humidity that is controlled by indoor nursery environments.

  • In nature orchids normally bloom once (for an extended period of months), usually in the Fall through early Spring. Their “nature” cue to bloom is the cool weather in the Fall.
  • Normally in the Summer months leading up to Fall, orchids will be in their “active growth phase” which is when they grow new leaves and new roots. Orchids prepare for Fall blooms by storing up energy in new growth (almost like if you were to eat super healthy for a few months before a big race) which is why I give my orchids extra fertilizer at this time. Their “nature” cue at this time is the warm Summer months.

Nothing is wrong with nurseries “forcing” orchids into a cycle. But later on this post, when I explain that my orchids are on a certain cycle it may be confusing to you because your orchid may be on a different cycle. This may because you bought an orchid that was forced into bloom by a nursery or it may be because you live in a different climate. Once you have had your orchids for over a year they will catch up to a natural cycle.

My main goal is to make this easy for you! So if you have just received an orchid and it does not match up with the cycle below… then wait. I do this all the time with newly acquired orchids. I wait for their blooms to fall off. I then repot them and watch as they match up the next year.

Note: Occasionally I have repotted orchids and sadly they have not rebloomed. The are various reasons for this. Click on this post to see why.

Orchid Calendar Overview

Summer

Most of my orchids, that I have not recently bought or received, have been out of bloom for months. At this time they are preparing for their fall spikes (which become blooms) by shedding old leaves and growing both new leaves and roots. This is their natural energy cycle and is called their “active growth phase.” Many people panic when they see their bottom orchid leaves turning yellow and falling off but there is no need to worry because this is natural. When their leaves turn yellow you can either cut them off or they will shed naturally and seal themselves off.

At this time it is super hot, where I live, and I want to make sure that my orchids are not getting too dry or too hot! I regulate their heat exposure by placing them on humidity trays, misting them and placing a fan near them. Be especially careful of heat if you have your orchids outside.

  • I make sure they are properly watered.
  • I place them on humidity trays, some of which I have made on my own.
  • I mist them.
  • I make sure they get extra fertilizer.
  • I also have a fan in the room that keeps them cool on really hot days.
  • I repot any newly acquired orchids as soon as they go out of bloom.
  • I am also looking for and treat pest, fungus and rot.

Fall

At this time my orchids are preparing to shoot out new spikes. Spikes are the little shoot that are often confused with roots which become the blooms we all love. Spikes look like little “mittens” at first :)

Naturally orchid spikes do not typically grow up, like we see in stores, which is why we need to stake and clip them. It does not hurt an orchid to stake it. This process is done because we think the orchids look “prettier” this way and this makes it easier to place multiple orchids together, on humidity tray, because they are not crowding each other.

If you store your orchids indoors, like I do, then you may have to give your orchids the “Fall Cue” by cracking a window near them for a week or two. This is because when we heat our homes, orchids do not notice that it's cold outside and don't know that it's time to start growing spikes/shoots.

I have prepared for this time by buying stakes and clips.

As the new spikes grow I stake and clip them with different size stakes. If you wait till the spike is longer, you may break it because when it's small it's super malleable and easily manipulated in the direction you want it to grow.

  • I have cut back on my fertilizer at this time.
  • I continue to water properly, but less than the Summer because they are drying out slower.
  • I continue to have my orchids on humidity trays.
  • I mist them.
  • I repot any newly acquired orchids as soon as they go out of bloom.
  • I am also looking for and treat pest, fungus and rot.
  • I also take notes, comparing them to last year, keeping track of when I see the first spike appear.

Winter

At this time I am watching my orchids bloom with much anticipation! Most of my orchids have shot out spikes by November and have been staked. Now I am watching them grow, some of them are blooming while others are producing more and more buds. This is a really fun time!

Some orchids experience “bud blast,” which is super annoying. This is when an orchid has a bloom bud that is about to open and instead it shrivels up, turns yellow and dies! Click here for my post on this.

  • I continue to cut back on my fertilizer at this time.
  • I water properly, but less than I would in the Spring/Summer months because they are drying out less.
  • I have my orchids on humidity trays.
  • I mist them.
  • I repot any newly acquired orchids as soon as they go out of bloom.
  • I am also looking for and treat pest, fungus and rot.
  • I take notes on the first bloom time and how many blooms.

SPRING

At this time my orchids have begun to shed their blooms. Orchids do this naturally – the blooms will shrivel and fall off one by one. Orchids have worked hard to produce these blooms as all of their energy is going to the shoot and its blooms. Eventually, when all the blooms have fallen, you will want to cut back their shoots in order to conserve their energy.

Not only do you want to cut back their shoots but you will want to repot them in premium mix. Even the best mix breaks down over time and giving them fresh new mix will help them prepare for their new leaf and root growth. This is also a great time to look at their roots, cut off dead ones and look for any rot.

Your orchid may need to be moved to a bigger pot at this time. Orchids like to be potted snugly but they do not like to be smothered!

Once the blooms have fallen the orchids begins their “active growth phase.” This phase is when they grow new roots and leaves. Without new and healthy root and leaf growth your orchid will not bloom next year. It's an energy cycle. It would be the same as a kid growing strong bones in preparation for a growth spurt, which is why we increase fertilization in the Spring and Summer months.

They will also shed their bottom leaves as new leaf growth appears. You have the option to let the orchid shed its leaf naturally (it will seal itself off) or cut it off. Click on this post for more information on this.

At this time, if you want, you have the option to move your orchid outside. You just need to make sure they do not get too hot. Do not put them in full sun – orchids like dapple shade. Also if you put them outside you will need to take extra care to make sure they don't dry out or get scorched.

  • I make sure they are properly watered.
  • I place them on humidity trays, some of which I have made on my own.
  • I mist them.
  • I make sure they get extra of fertilizer.
  • I repot my orchids as soon as they go out of bloom.
  • I also take notes on them to see when they drop their blooms, what their roots look like, and if I moved their pot size.
  • I am also looking for and treating pest, fungus and rot.

Hope that helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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Can I grow my orchids outside?

Orchids can thrive outdoors given the right environmental conditions that support their unique needs. Orchids are not as finicky as people make them out to be. They can survive in most climates as long as they don't get too cool or too hot.

– In general, a frosty night can kill an orchid. So many orchids, depending on where you live, will need to be taken indoors in the fall and winter.

– Also scorching heat will both sunburn an orchid leaf and dry it out too quickly. So your orchid will need be placed in an area that has dappled shade (indirect sunlight). You can tell if your orchid is getting too hot by feeling the leaves….if they are hot to the touch then they need to be moved to an area that has less direct sunlight.

Orchids that especially benefit from growing outside are; Cattleya, Cymbidium, Dendrobium and Oncidium orchids. They love the warmth and extra light due to the fact that they are “high light” orchids. Because of this they may grow better and bloom more reliably when “treated” to the the summer outdoors. We must remember that even if an orchid is said to be “high light” it does not mean the kind of full sun that you expect in say a tomato plant. “High light” is a term that is relative and specific to the light requirements of the Orchid Family. All orchids need “dapple shade” which is essential for “high light” orchids.

If you wish to move these orchids outside in the warm months simply bring them outside in their pots. You will want to really make sure that your orchids don't dry out too much, so remember to mist them and put them humidity trays.

You can also mount them as seen in this post. My grandfather and grandmother love planting their orchids on Florida trees. This is a beautiful way to grow orchids!

NOTE: Allowing your orchids to benefit from the outdoors opens you up to fungus and pests that can wreak havoc on your dear plant!

Pest and fungus can be difficult to control both in and outdoors. If you have pets or children it can also be disconcerting to use certain pesticides to control these issues.

For pest I do the following; You can wash pests off with water but their eggs will remain so I use GET OFF ME! Pest Control Spray made from cinnamon. I spray this on my orchids each time I water my orchids. Also if you notice a lot of flies you can mix this spray with 50/50 with rubbing alcohol to increase its effectiveness. This is a safe substance to use around pets and children.

For fungus see this post; I always have Physan 20 on hand from rePotme.

Hope that Helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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My orchid won't bloom. What is wrong?

20111212-161602.jpg

Okay so you successfully repotted your orchid and it is the following season and your orchid will not bloom!! What is up with that? Most likely your orchid is out of balance in either light, roots, growth, season and/or natural stimuli. Here are a few reason why this may happen;

1. Maybe it's light. Hands down the most common reason that orchids fail to bloom is insufficient light. My Phalaenopsis orchids are usually happy with the filtered light in my windowsill but many other varieties need more light. Dendrobiums, Oncidiums, Cymbidiums and other types of orchids need much more light. They may need supplementary grow lights, which I don't use…. I just put them in a brighter window.

You can normally tell if your orchid is getting too much or too little light by looking at their leaves. Below is an example of what a Phalaenopsis orchid leaf should look like with the correct amount of light. It should be shiny and bright green.

You may ask, “What will your orchid look like with too little light?” The leaves will be a dark forest green instead of bright green. Below is an example of this…

20111212-162421.jpg

On the other hand unlike a tomato plant, they can't handle full sun. A bright window has much more shade then if they were outside. Windowsill light is called “dappled light” and works well for most orchids.

You may ask, “What will your orchid look like with too much light?” The leaves will be a light yellow-green instead of a bright green. They can also get sunburned… Both are shown below. You can see the yellow leaf and the scorching on the other leaf, from too much sun (which looks like a big brown spot).

20111212-162413.jpg

2. Maybe it's the roots….

Orchids work in balance between their roots, leaves and blooms. If your roots are healthy you should get good blooms. Many times I have seen a gorgeous orchid with deceptively beautiful leaves and flowers but when I went to repot, I found a horrible root system. In this situation even though the leaves and flowers were pretty the plant would surely die (or would have really suffered) if not repotted.

Horrible root systems are linked to overwatering and/or lack of repotting. You orchid roots need ALOT of oxygen to survive and thrive. Without oxygen orchid roots will smother and die. It helps to have pots that you can clearly see their root system (shown below). Your orchid should have healthy green roots, as shown freshly watered below, on the left. In between watering they will look like the picture on the right a slight white/green which is also good.

20111212-164749.jpg

Orchids are different from normal house plants….you can't plant an orchid in normal soil, they need unique soil. I get all my soil/mix from rePotme. And even their mix, which I think is the best, will break down over time and will need to be replaced through repotting. Orchid mix will always need replacing because orchids need fresh mix to thrive. Orchids will not have enough energy to bloom if their roots are suffering. Remember its a balancing act!

3. Maybe it's new growth… There are two types of growth patterns for orchids; sympodial and monopodial.

Monopodial orchids; Phalaenopsis (which I have ALOT of) and Vanda are the most common. They grow off a single central stem with leaves on either side. Each leaf should be at least as big as the leaf before it. There should be at least one or two new leaves per year.

You should look for the next bloom spike on monopodial orchids from the base at the underside of a leaf (usually 2 or 3 leaves down from the newest leaf) and on the opposite side as the prior bloom spike.

In order to keep blooming over the years, monopodial orchids such as Phalaenopsis need to put on new leaves each year. Over time, as the orchid grows in size and strength it will send out a bloom spike on each side of the stem simultaneously.

Sympodial orchids; These orchids have multiple growths and should grow 1 or 2 new growths per year. A newly acquired orchid may have 4 or 5 stalks, most with leaves, with the bloom coming from the largest stalk. The “stalks,” on these orchids, are called “pseudobulbs.” If your orchid is thriving you should see a new pseudobulb emerge from the base of the previous pseudobulb near where the orchid bloomed. During the leaf and root growth period (not the bloom period), usually in summer, this new pseudobulb will ideally grow to be at least as big or bigger than the one that just bloomed. The next bloom spike will come from this new pseudobulb. You should be looking for your orchid to grow big, healthy new pseudobulbs because they will be the source of the next season's bloom. Good light, fertilizer and water are also keys to healthy new growth. Over time, as the orchid grows in size and strength it will grow multiple pseudobulbs which can all spike at the same time creating an abundance of gorgeous flowers!

4. Maybe it's the season….Orchids naturally, bloom on their own schedule. Most likely it will not be the time of year it bloomed when you bought it because it was forced (off-cycle) into bloom at a nursery. You will find that most orchids grow new leaves and new roots during the summer, grow spikes in the fall and bloom in the winter through spring.

20111212-164926.jpg

Most orchids will only bloom once a year but some bloom twice or more. Your blooms can last weeks or months while others can last only days. Some basic research about the type of orchid will identify what to expect. My Phalaenopsis orchids usually bloom once per year and their blooms can last for months. Once their flowers have fallen off they may have a couple of extra flowers emerge from the end of the bloom spike and bloom again but this has been rare for me. I also have Dendrobiums, Oncidiums and Cymbidiums- they usually bloom once or maybe twice per year with spectacular blooms that last a month or two.

5. Maybe it's natural stimuli – in nature, orchids have natural stimuli that indicate to the plant that the growth season is over and it's time to bloom. The two main characters of natural season are a dip in temperature in the Fall and gray days resulting in lower light. Some orchids are temperature sensitive and some are light sensitive.

Orchids that are sensitive to temperature are triggered to bloom by the natural cooling that occurs in the fall. This drop in temperature signals to the orchid that the growth period (new roots and new leaves) is coming to an end and it is time to get ready to set a bloom spike, as shown below. If your like me, you grow your orchids inside where the temperature is fairly constant. If this is the case, orchids can be deprived of the natural cues and will be reluctant to bloom. You will need to trick your orchid into realizing its Fall by giving it temperatures in the 60's for a brief period (1-2 weeks). You can do this by cracking a window near them. I found this very successful with my orchids.

20111212-165245.jpg

Orchids are also sensitive to light and can have their natural cycle disrupted by leaving lights on, after dark, in our homes. As much as possible turn the lights off, at night, when your orchids are in your homes.

Hope that Helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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How do orchids grow in nature?

In nature most orchids grow on trees. Their roots grab and “hug” the tree bark and support themselves through this union. The orchid uses the tree as an anchor and gets nutrients from all the organic matter that is on the tree and whatever may wash down the tree through the orchid. This typically happens in a jungle environment. Jungles are humid and orchids thrive in this environment because they absorb water from the natural humidity. Because of natural rain in these areas, the orchid is used to experiencing abundant water (which washes over them) and times of dryness. Orchid roots, leaves and pseudobulbs allow the storage of water for an upcoming dry period. Some orchids grow upright and some naturally slope downward (most orchids are staked by nurseries which makes them grow straight up).

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Naturally orchids bloom on a schedule that is rarely seen in todays world. In our world orchids are “forced” into bloom by a nursery. Nurseries have a “perfect” growing environment in which humidity, light and temperature are controlled. This environment allows nurseries to produce blooming orchids year round. For example if you buy an orchid in the Summer, and it is in full bloom, it has most likely been forced into bloom by a nursery. Nothing is wrong with a nursery doing this but once you have your own orchids, on a natural cycle, then they will bloom on the schedule of nature which is early Winter and Spring. In the Summer is normally when an orchid will grow roots and leaves. Orchids need to grow new leaves and new roots to store up energy for the upcoming bloom period. See my Season by Season guide post for more information on this.

All of these facts explain why is is very strange for an orchid to grow in your house, in a pot and being staked. This is not to say that they can not be grown in your home (orchids are very hardy and easy to grow) but you must create a “jungle” environment. Meaning you must repot them snug but not smothering (they need to breath), you must give them humidity, and they enjoy a good misting. Please refer to my previous post in regards to potting, humidity , watering and fertilizing on examples on how to create this “jungle” environment in your home!

Hope that helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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