Dendrobium Orchids

Dendrobiums are tall with elongated pseudobulbs (stems) topped by modest sized leaves. Their shoots look like bamboo canes and should not be cut back because even after the leaves fall from the oldest pseudobulbs they continue to provide sustenance to the plant. You should only cut them back, if they are shriveled.

Dendrobiums like to grow in a very small pot, often the pot looks ridiculously small compared to the height of the plant. This presents some problems because they tend to be top-heavy. You can keep them from tipping over by placing them in clay pots. You can also use broken brick, cobblestone or pea gravel in the bottom of the pot to weigh it down. Precise staking of Dendrobiums to make them well balanced is also critical. I used twist ties and tied them up around a sturdy stake.

These orchids grow quickly throughout summer and normally take a rest during winter. Dormant buds erupt into shoots from the base of the pseudobulb usually in spring. They should be repotted after blooming and sadly they often resent repotting and in extreme cases can be killed if repotted at the wrong time. Dendrobiums prefer to be repotted only as new growth appears.

These orchids are easy to grown indoors but need more light (they need to be in a bright window in your home) then the popular, Phalaenopsis.

Here's a picture of my Dendrobium that bloomed in January 2012.

Dendrobium Basics

• Blooms: Winter thru Spring
• Water: Water thoroughly then allow to dry out briefly between waterings.
• Light: These orchids like bright light. You can place them near a bright window
• Temperature: they like a minimum temp of 60 degrees and a maximum of 95
• Fertilize: I use FEED me
• New pseudobulbs in the Spring and Summer, rest in the Fall/Winter and Spikes following rest.
• Natural Cues: Like other orchids they take their bloom cue from the shortening day length in the Fall
• Repotting: should take place ususally every two years, sooner if they are trying to grow outside of their pot.
• Potting Mixes: I use Dendrobium Imperial Orchid Mix from from rePotme.

Hope that helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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Oncidium Orchids

Known as the,”The Dancing Lady” this is a beautiful orchid that is jam packed with flowers (as shown above). Their flowers tend to “fall” or cascade down and are much smaller then most orchids. Each flower resembles a tiny lady dancing, which makes them quite fun! Normally their colors range from a yellow, tricolor, or the popular “Red Sharry baby” (which, I have been told, smells like chocolate) shown below…

These orchids are easy to grown indoors but need MORE light (they need to be in a bright window in your home) then the popular, Phalaenopsis.

Don't be alarmed if it seems like your Oncidiums are growing up an out of their pots (as shown below). This is normal for this type of orchid because in nature they would be trying to grow up a tree trunk. And don't be quick to cut off their shoots because many times they will re-bloom off the same shoot! I was told to cut them back only if they turn brown or are rotting.

As far as repotting, Oncidiums like to be slightly under potted in a very free-draining bark-based potting media. I use this. Oncidiums tend to form large clumps of pseudobulbs and develop into rather large plants, which means they can easily be divided when repotting. I have been told to make sure there are at least three pseudobulbs in each division.

Here are two pics of my Oncidium Intergeneric named Wilsonara Kolibri… deep purple!!

Oncidiums Cycle and Needs;

• Water: You need to water thoroughly then allow to dry out very briefly between waterings.
• Light: They need bright light.Temperature: Min temp of 55 degrees, max of 95
• Fertilize: I use FEED ME!.
• Growth Habit: Grows new pseudobulbs every year. Bloom spikes emerge from new pseudobulbs at the base of the new pseudobulb, usually in fall or winter.
• Look for: New pseudobulbs in the Spring and Summer, spikes in the Fall, blooms in the Fall or Winter
• Repot every 1-2 years
• Potting Mixes: I use Oncidium Imperial Orchid Mix

Introducing my newest orchid – A Miniature Oncidium Twinkle. Of course I named it Twinkle:)

Miniature Oncidiums, the most popular being Oncidium Twinkle, have a remarkable number of flowers for such a small plant. Miniature Oncidiums prefer to be in a small, tight pot and will dry out very quickly. It is a bit of a challenge keeping these little guys moist enough. Still, they are relatively easy to grow and have a generous bloom. Unlike standard Oncidiums, the miniature varieties are less likely to attempt to grow up and out of the pot.

These are diminutive plants, usually 6 inches or less in height.

Hope that Helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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Cymbidium Orchids

Cymbidium orchids tend to have tall spikes loaded with flowers! This orchid has much smaller pseudobulbs that are topped with long thin leaves. These leaves gently drape to form an attractive foliage plant. Cymbidiums have a fantastic range of colors including; white, green, yellowish-green, cream, yellow, brown, pink, red, and orange. Their blooms can last for up to ten weeks!

These orchids are easy to grown indoors but need MORE light (they need to be in a bright window in your home) and MORE water then the popular, Phalaenopsis. Phalaenopsis orchids have big thick leaves that store water whereas Cymbidiums have long thin leaves that store less water and will need more “man-made” help. If you notice wrinkled pseudobulbs this generally indicates a lack of water. Because of this I highly suggest putting them humidity trays because of their lack of water storage and I would also mist them. Learn here how to make your own humidity trays.

Like other orchids their blooms are triggered, naturally, by a combination of falling temperatures and reduced water. Their natural bloom season is during the winter. Cymbidium flowers grow in sprays, with spikes arising from new pseudobulbs every season

Also similar to most other orchids, Cymbidiums prefer to be repotted shortly after blooming as the new growth is beginning to emerge. They enjoy a rich, loose, organic potting mixture and can be easily divided during repotting in the spring.

One difference between Cymbidium orchids and other types is that they can survive lower temperatures then most orchids.

Cymbidium Basics:

• Water: water thoroughly then allow to dry out briefly between waterings.
• Light: these orchids like bright light. You can place them near a bright window
• Temperature: these types of orchids like a minimum temp of 40 degrees and maximum of 95
• Growth Habit: these orchids grow new pseudobulbs every year. Ususally in the fall bloom spikes emerge from new pseudobulbs at the base. The older pseudobulbs will not bloom again but they continue to support the plant until they shrivel up and die.
• Look for: New pseudobulbs in the Spring and Summer, Spikes in the Fall, Blooms in the Winter

Hope that Helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

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Phalaenopsis Orchids

The Phalaenopsis or ‘Moth Orchid’ is the one of the most common orchids sold in the Unites States and is one my favorite types. I especially love these orchids because even out of bloom their leaves are gorgeous!

Phalaenopsis orchids are very easy to produce because nurseries can “force” them into bloom year-round. Nurseries have a “perfect” growing environment in which humidity, light and temperature are controlled. This environment allows nurseries to produce blooming orchids year round. In nature orchids bloom on seasonal schedule. That is why if you are researching Phalaenopsis orchids, a lot of websites say that they should be out of bloom in the summer/fall even though you just picked up your Phalaenopsis, in full bloom, at your local nursery in the summer/fall. This can be very confusing because all these websites will tell you to repot an orchid, in a certain season, even though they are in full bloom (you are not suppose to repot orchids in full bloom unless they are in dire need). Now I know that these orchids were forced into bloom and I needed to wait till they had dropped their blooms to repot. Check out my Season by Season guide post where I explain this further.

Once you have acquired your own Phalaenopsis and they have gone through the full process of blooming and being properly repotted they will eventually bloom at their natural rate in your home – if you are giving them “natural” cues. Natural cues are important because if your are growing your orchids indoors then they may not “feel” the coolness of the fall. Phalaenopsis orchids “know” to spike (a spike is the beginning of the bloom stalk) when they feel the drop in temperature that comes with fall. If grown indoors the plant should be given two weeks of near minimal temperatures in the fall to initiate bloom spikes, which can be done by cracking a window for a few nights. This has always worked for me.

Phalaenopsis go through the following process IF grown naturally (in the midwest of the U.S.)… not in a green house;

• Spring …continual but end production of blooms. After blooms have fallen off, then repot.
• Summer….production of new leaves and roots. Orchids need new roots and new leaves to store up energy for the following years blooms.
• Fall…production of new spikes and the beginning of blooms (around October/November). Make sure you have stakes on hand to clip the spikes to.
• Winter…continual growth of spikes and further blooms

My Phalaenopsis are very easily grown in our house and they stay in bloom for a very long time. Many other types of orchids can be very finicky but Phalaenopsis can be repotted anytime, though it is usually best to do so when not in bloom. I have had to some emergency repotting when a recently acquired Phalaenopsis was in major distress (for example one was potted in a pot that had no drainage and the roots were rotting = orchids will die with no drainage/standing water).

My Phalaenopsis do well living in my large windowsill (as shown above). They enjoy the natural light and since I have them on humidity trays they enjoy consistent moisture. Please see my previous post on repotting and watering.

Hope that helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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Season by Season Guide

This post is going to be a “one stop guide” of everything I do throughout the year with my orchids and what's going on with them during this time. You can click on the various links throughout this post for extra advice on what to do.

Quick background on orchids to help explain the seasons –

Orchids grow in nature at a different rate than orchids sold in stores. This is because stores buy orchids from nurseries which have a controlled environment which “forces” orchids into bloom by speeding up natural cues synthetically. They do this by giving them year round light, temperature and humidity that is controlled by indoor nursery environments.

• In nature orchids normally bloom once (for an extended period of months), usually in the Fall through early Spring. Their “nature” cue to bloom is the cool weather in the Fall.
• Normally in the Summer months leading up to Fall, orchids will be in their “active growth phase” which is when they grow new leaves and new roots. Orchids prepare for Fall blooms by storing up energy in new growth (almost like if you were to eat super healthy for a few months before a big race) which is why I give my orchids extra fertilizer at this time. Their “nature” cue at this time is the warm Summer months.

Nothing is wrong with nurseries “forcing” orchids into a cycle. But later on this post, when I explain that my orchids are on a certain cycle it may be confusing to you because your orchid may be on a different cycle. This may because you bought an orchid that was forced into bloom by a nursery or it may be because you live in a different climate. Once you have had your orchids for over a year they will catch up to a natural cycle.

My main goal is to make this easy for you! So if you have just received an orchid and it does not match up with the cycle below… then wait. I do this all the time with newly acquired orchids. I wait for their blooms to fall off. I then repot them and watch as they match up the next year.

Note: Occasionally I have repotted orchids and sadly they have not rebloomed. The are various reasons for this. Click on this post to see why.

Orchid Calendar Overview

Summer

Most of my orchids, that I have not recently bought or received, have been out of bloom for months. At this time they are preparing for their fall spikes (which become blooms) by shedding old leaves and growing both new leaves and roots. This is their natural energy cycle and is called their “active growth phase.” Many people panic when they see their bottom orchid leaves turning yellow and falling off but there is no need to worry because this is natural. When their leaves turn yellow you can either cut them off or they will shed naturally and seal themselves off.

At this time it is super hot, where I live, and I want to make sure that my orchids are not getting too dry or too hot! I regulate their heat exposure by placing them on humidity trays, misting them and placing a fan near them. Be especially careful of heat if you have your orchids outside.

• I make sure they are properly watered.
• I place them on humidity trays, some of which I have made on my own.
• I mist them.
• I make sure they get extra fertilizer.
• I also have a fan in the room that keeps them cool on really hot days.
• I repot any newly acquired orchids as soon as they go out of bloom.
• I am also looking for and treat pest, fungus and rot.

Fall

At this time my orchids are preparing to shoot out new spikes. Spikes are the little shoot that are often confused with roots which become the blooms we all love. Spikes look like little “mittens” at first :)

Naturally orchid spikes do not typically grow up, like we see in stores, which is why we need to stake and clip them. It does not hurt an orchid to stake it. This process is done because we think the orchids look “prettier” this way and this makes it easier to place multiple orchids together, on humidity tray, because they are not crowding each other.

If you store your orchids indoors, like I do, then you may have to give your orchids the “Fall Cue” by cracking a window near them for a week or two. This is because when we heat our homes, orchids do not notice that it's cold outside and don't know that it's time to start growing spikes/shoots.

I have prepared for this time by buying stakes and clips.

As the new spikes grow I stake and clip them with different size stakes. If you wait till the spike is longer, you may break it because when it's small it's super malleable and easily manipulated in the direction you want it to grow.

• I have cut back on my fertilizer at this time.
• I continue to water properly, but less than the Summer because they are drying out slower.
• I continue to have my orchids on humidity trays.
• I mist them.
• I repot any newly acquired orchids as soon as they go out of bloom.
• I am also looking for and treat pest, fungus and rot.
• I also take notes, comparing them to last year, keeping track of when I see the first spike appear.

Winter

At this time I am watching my orchids bloom with much anticipation! Most of my orchids have shot out spikes by November and have been staked. Now I am watching them grow, some of them are blooming while others are producing more and more buds. This is a really fun time!

Some orchids experience “bud blast,” which is super annoying. This is when an orchid has a bloom bud that is about to open and instead it shrivels up, turns yellow and dies! Click here for my post on this.

• I continue to cut back on my fertilizer at this time.
• I water properly, but less than I would in the Spring/Summer months because they are drying out less.
• I have my orchids on humidity trays.
• I mist them.
• I repot any newly acquired orchids as soon as they go out of bloom.
• I am also looking for and treat pest, fungus and rot.
• I take notes on the first bloom time and how many blooms.

SPRING

At this time my orchids have begun to shed their blooms. Orchids do this naturally – the blooms will shrivel and fall off one by one. Orchids have worked hard to produce these blooms as all of their energy is going to the shoot and its blooms. Eventually, when all the blooms have fallen, you will want to cut back their shoots in order to conserve their energy.

Not only do you want to cut back their shoots but you will want to repot them in premium mix. Even the best mix breaks down over time and giving them fresh new mix will help them prepare for their new leaf and root growth. This is also a great time to look at their roots, cut off dead ones and look for any rot.

Your orchid may need to be moved to a bigger pot at this time. Orchids like to be potted snugly but they do not like to be smothered!

Once the blooms have fallen the orchids begins their “active growth phase.” This phase is when they grow new roots and leaves. Without new and healthy root and leaf growth your orchid will not bloom next year. It's an energy cycle. It would be the same as a kid growing strong bones in preparation for a growth spurt, which is why we increase fertilization in the Spring and Summer months.

They will also shed their bottom leaves as new leaf growth appears. You have the option to let the orchid shed its leaf naturally (it will seal itself off) or cut it off. Click on this post for more information on this.

At this time, if you want, you have the option to move your orchid outside. You just need to make sure they do not get too hot. Do not put them in full sun – orchids like dapple shade. Also if you put them outside you will need to take extra care to make sure they don't dry out or get scorched.

• I make sure they are properly watered.
• I place them on humidity trays, some of which I have made on my own.
• I mist them.
• I make sure they get extra of fertilizer.
• I repot my orchids as soon as they go out of bloom.
• I also take notes on them to see when they drop their blooms, what their roots look like, and if I moved their pot size.
• I am also looking for and treating pest, fungus and rot.

Hope that helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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Interesting Orchid Facts

Did you know…

Orchids are one of the largest family of flowering plants, consisting of 25,000 to 30,000 species!

Although generally thought of as a tropical plant, orchids grow on every continent, in every climate, from the Arctic Circle to the southernmost jungle (except Antarctica).

Orchids have the tiniest seeds in the world, making them a challenge to grow and cultivate. And there can be up to 3 million seeds in a single orchid seedpod!

It takes patience to grow an orchid – the plant's first flowers will not appear until at least 5 to 7 years after germination. And they can live to be up to 100 years old! Some orchid flowers bloom for mere hours, while others last up to half a year! The smallest orchid is the size of a dime, while the largest weigh several hundred pounds.

Orchid flowers always grow upside down, in their natural habitats (shown below). And in their natural environment, each orchid species is dependent upon a specific type of insect to carry out its pollination.

Orchids have become one of the most popular houseplants of all time, recently surpassing even the popularity of African Violets.

There are two principal types of orchids: terrestrials, which feature extensive below-ground root systems, and epiphytes, characterized by their aerial or exposed root system.

Hope that Helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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Best Orchid Supplies

What is the best orchid supply website?

This is my favorite orchid supply website! I absolutely…love rePotme!! They are so nice and if you email them questions…they email you back!! I have learned so much from them!!

These are my MUST HAVE products from them!!!

1. Feed Me fertilizer

2. Wash Me leaf wash

3. Get Off Me for the nasty pest

4. Physan 20 for fungus

6. Oxygen Core Dual Clear Pots….. Best ORCHID POTS EVER!!

7. Their orchid mixes …. Feel free to ask me which will work the best with your orchids.

 

They just built a new place in Delaware. Here is a pic and description of their Eco friendly building!!

photo copyrighted by rePotme.com from this page

This is the statement they released on their new Headquarters… “We are pleased to let all of our terrific customers know that we are now shipping from our new headquarters in Georgetown Delaware. We are located approximately 20 miles from the Atlantic Ocean. We thought you would like to see where your orders ship from and learn a bit about our construction project.

As we grew over the years, we needed more space to continue offering our products to an expanding universe of customers. A few years ago we purchased this 20 acre farm and began planning the construction of the new rePotme. We knew we had to keep a continued focus on rapidly filling orders with the finest products while being able to carry more products for all sorts of orchids, bonsai, african violets and the wide variety of other plants our customers have. The building itself is over 12,000 square feet and allows us to move great quantities of material and products in and out at the same time. This is critical to our operation because we have large trucks bringing in supplies daily even as your orders are heading out to domestic and international destinations.

Our internet presence is powered by wind turbines while our heating and air conditioning is delivered by geothermal energy. Electricity for our operations comes from a co-operative. All rainwater collected from the roof is directed into into two ponds that are regularly visited by a wide variety of birds including recently sighted eagles and a blue heron! The farm is primarily meadow lands graced by a 100 year old barn. By coincidence, our street name is Paradise Road and this wonderful rural farmland is appropriately named. When we are not filling your orders, we take in all that mother nature has created around us.”

Buy from them!!

Hope that Helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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