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Archive for the ‘repotting’ Category

Can I grow my orchids outside?

Orchids can thrive outdoors given the right environmental conditions that support their unique needs. Orchids are not as finicky as people make them out to be. They can survive in most climates as long as they don't get too cool or too hot.

– In general, a frosty night can kill an orchid. So many orchids, depending on where you live, will need to be taken indoors in the fall and winter.

– Also scorching heat will both sunburn an orchid leaf and dry it out too quickly. So your orchid will need be placed in an area that has dappled shade (indirect sunlight). You can tell if your orchid is getting too hot by feeling the leaves….if they are hot to the touch then they need to be moved to an area that has less direct sunlight.

Orchids that especially benefit from growing outside are; Cattleya, Cymbidium, Dendrobium and Oncidium orchids. They love the warmth and extra light due to the fact that they are “high light” orchids. Because of this they may grow better and bloom more reliably when “treated” to the the summer outdoors. We must remember that even if an orchid is said to be “high light” it does not mean the kind of full sun that you expect in say a tomato plant. “High light” is a term that is relative and specific to the light requirements of the Orchid Family. All orchids need “dapple shade” which is essential for “high light” orchids.

If you wish to move these orchids outside in the warm months simply bring them outside in their pots. You will want to really make sure that your orchids don't dry out too much, so remember to mist them and put them humidity trays.

You can also mount them as seen in this post. My grandfather and grandmother love planting their orchids on Florida trees. This is a beautiful way to grow orchids!

NOTE: Allowing your orchids to benefit from the outdoors opens you up to fungus and pests that can wreak havoc on your dear plant!

Pest and fungus can be difficult to control both in and outdoors. If you have pets or children it can also be disconcerting to use certain pesticides to control these issues.

For pest I do the following; You can wash pests off with water but their eggs will remain so I use GET OFF ME! Pest Control Spray made from cinnamon. I spray this on my orchids each time I water my orchids. Also if you notice a lot of flies you can mix this spray with 50/50 with rubbing alcohol to increase its effectiveness. This is a safe substance to use around pets and children.

For fungus see this post; I always have Physan 20 on hand from rePotme.

Hope that Helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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I have a total of 18 Orchids, yeah I know! Once I started this blog everyone kept giving me their orchids once they were out of bloom or if they were dying. I love these orchids and I had to create a system to keep track of them somehow. With so many orchids it is hard to remember when I last watered, fertilized and treated them. I found that taking notes on them is the easiest way stay organized.

Here is some background on my orchids. I repotted 13 of them so far. The other 5 were bought in bloom, off cycle, and I am waiting for them to loose their blooms so I can repot them. And around another 5 were bought in bloom earlier this fall, again not in their normal bloom cycle, and they were repotted but will probably wait till next fall to shoot new spikes.

5 of the 18 shot up new spikes this fall and are about to bloom! Not all my orchids re-bloomed this year, for a variety of reasons. That might not seem like very good luck but most of my orchids were in really bad shape when I got them (rescued from friends etc.), three actually died due to under watering and lack of repotting from a previous owner.

I number each of my orchids and keep track of their habits. Number 5 is my rock star! I successfully repotted it last year and it has spiked beautifully! Here is a pic of it on January 5, 2012.

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It has 15 little blooms off it, including a shoot that sprung from another node. I found this plant abandoned and because it was not in bloom, I can't wait to see what color it's blooms will be!

Here is an example of the notes I take on it…

5. Already bloomed orchid Last bloom unknown before Aug. 201. Repotted on Aug 17, 2011. Went up a pot size. Good condition/Healthy roots. Detected spike Sept 15, 2011. Detected new root on 9/29/11. On 10/4/11 and 10/18/11 set bigger spike on stick. 10/27/11 no new dev except spike is bigger. 11/1/11 2nd spike shot off from 1st spike/node!

I also keep track of when I water, fertilize and treat my orchids. Each orchid has a plant label that I number and then write down everything I do to it. This helps with having so many orchids because I loose track of when to fertilize etc.

FOR EXAMPLE:1/11/11 15, 16 and 17 Got the works (9 day watering difference) *2* 5 just watered (19 day watering difference) *4*

5, 15, 16, 17 are different orchids I have.

“Got the works” means I watered, fertilized, cleaned the leaves and treated my orchids.

“Just watered” means it's the 4th time I have watered my orchid and I don't use fertilizer (or any other product) so as to flush out the salts built up by fertilizing. Click here for a more detailed explanation of why this is important.

The numbers *2* and *4* at the END of the sentence is the treatment sequence it is in…*1* = Got the Works*2* = Got the Works*3* = Got the Works*4* = Just watered

And finally, I also like to see how many watering day difference there is…which is shown in the parentheses above. I find this helpful because sometimes I can tell by moving my orchids where the dry spots in my house are or if I need to increase humidity etc.

Hope that Helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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My orchid won't bloom. What is wrong?

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Okay so you successfully repotted your orchid and it is the following season and your orchid will not bloom!! What is up with that? Most likely your orchid is out of balance in either light, roots, growth, season and/or natural stimuli. Here are a few reason why this may happen;

1. Maybe it's light. Hands down the most common reason that orchids fail to bloom is insufficient light. My Phalaenopsis orchids are usually happy with the filtered light in my windowsill but many other varieties need more light. Dendrobiums, Oncidiums, Cymbidiums and other types of orchids need much more light. They may need supplementary grow lights, which I don't use…. I just put them in a brighter window.

You can normally tell if your orchid is getting too much or too little light by looking at their leaves. Below is an example of what a Phalaenopsis orchid leaf should look like with the correct amount of light. It should be shiny and bright green.

You may ask, “What will your orchid look like with too little light?” The leaves will be a dark forest green instead of bright green. Below is an example of this…

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On the other hand unlike a tomato plant, they can't handle full sun. A bright window has much more shade then if they were outside. Windowsill light is called “dappled light” and works well for most orchids.

You may ask, “What will your orchid look like with too much light?” The leaves will be a light yellow-green instead of a bright green. They can also get sunburned… Both are shown below. You can see the yellow leaf and the scorching on the other leaf, from too much sun (which looks like a big brown spot).

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2. Maybe it's the roots….

Orchids work in balance between their roots, leaves and blooms. If your roots are healthy you should get good blooms. Many times I have seen a gorgeous orchid with deceptively beautiful leaves and flowers but when I went to repot, I found a horrible root system. In this situation even though the leaves and flowers were pretty the plant would surely die (or would have really suffered) if not repotted.

Horrible root systems are linked to overwatering and/or lack of repotting. You orchid roots need ALOT of oxygen to survive and thrive. Without oxygen orchid roots will smother and die. It helps to have pots that you can clearly see their root system (shown below). Your orchid should have healthy green roots, as shown freshly watered below, on the left. In between watering they will look like the picture on the right a slight white/green which is also good.

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Orchids are different from normal house plants….you can't plant an orchid in normal soil, they need unique soil. I get all my soil/mix from rePotme. And even their mix, which I think is the best, will break down over time and will need to be replaced through repotting. Orchid mix will always need replacing because orchids need fresh mix to thrive. Orchids will not have enough energy to bloom if their roots are suffering. Remember its a balancing act!

3. Maybe it's new growth… There are two types of growth patterns for orchids; sympodial and monopodial.

Monopodial orchids; Phalaenopsis (which I have ALOT of) and Vanda are the most common. They grow off a single central stem with leaves on either side. Each leaf should be at least as big as the leaf before it. There should be at least one or two new leaves per year.

You should look for the next bloom spike on monopodial orchids from the base at the underside of a leaf (usually 2 or 3 leaves down from the newest leaf) and on the opposite side as the prior bloom spike.

In order to keep blooming over the years, monopodial orchids such as Phalaenopsis need to put on new leaves each year. Over time, as the orchid grows in size and strength it will send out a bloom spike on each side of the stem simultaneously.

Sympodial orchids; These orchids have multiple growths and should grow 1 or 2 new growths per year. A newly acquired orchid may have 4 or 5 stalks, most with leaves, with the bloom coming from the largest stalk. The “stalks,” on these orchids, are called “pseudobulbs.” If your orchid is thriving you should see a new pseudobulb emerge from the base of the previous pseudobulb near where the orchid bloomed. During the leaf and root growth period (not the bloom period), usually in summer, this new pseudobulb will ideally grow to be at least as big or bigger than the one that just bloomed. The next bloom spike will come from this new pseudobulb. You should be looking for your orchid to grow big, healthy new pseudobulbs because they will be the source of the next season's bloom. Good light, fertilizer and water are also keys to healthy new growth. Over time, as the orchid grows in size and strength it will grow multiple pseudobulbs which can all spike at the same time creating an abundance of gorgeous flowers!

4. Maybe it's the season….Orchids naturally, bloom on their own schedule. Most likely it will not be the time of year it bloomed when you bought it because it was forced (off-cycle) into bloom at a nursery. You will find that most orchids grow new leaves and new roots during the summer, grow spikes in the fall and bloom in the winter through spring.

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Most orchids will only bloom once a year but some bloom twice or more. Your blooms can last weeks or months while others can last only days. Some basic research about the type of orchid will identify what to expect. My Phalaenopsis orchids usually bloom once per year and their blooms can last for months. Once their flowers have fallen off they may have a couple of extra flowers emerge from the end of the bloom spike and bloom again but this has been rare for me. I also have Dendrobiums, Oncidiums and Cymbidiums- they usually bloom once or maybe twice per year with spectacular blooms that last a month or two.

5. Maybe it's natural stimuli – in nature, orchids have natural stimuli that indicate to the plant that the growth season is over and it's time to bloom. The two main characters of natural season are a dip in temperature in the Fall and gray days resulting in lower light. Some orchids are temperature sensitive and some are light sensitive.

Orchids that are sensitive to temperature are triggered to bloom by the natural cooling that occurs in the fall. This drop in temperature signals to the orchid that the growth period (new roots and new leaves) is coming to an end and it is time to get ready to set a bloom spike, as shown below. If your like me, you grow your orchids inside where the temperature is fairly constant. If this is the case, orchids can be deprived of the natural cues and will be reluctant to bloom. You will need to trick your orchid into realizing its Fall by giving it temperatures in the 60's for a brief period (1-2 weeks). You can do this by cracking a window near them. I found this very successful with my orchids.

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Orchids are also sensitive to light and can have their natural cycle disrupted by leaving lights on, after dark, in our homes. As much as possible turn the lights off, at night, when your orchids are in your homes.

Hope that Helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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How do orchids grow in nature?

In nature most orchids grow on trees. Their roots grab and “hug” the tree bark and support themselves through this union. The orchid uses the tree as an anchor and gets nutrients from all the organic matter that is on the tree and whatever may wash down the tree through the orchid. This typically happens in a jungle environment. Jungles are humid and orchids thrive in this environment because they absorb water from the natural humidity. Because of natural rain in these areas, the orchid is used to experiencing abundant water (which washes over them) and times of dryness. Orchid roots, leaves and pseudobulbs allow the storage of water for an upcoming dry period. Some orchids grow upright and some naturally slope downward (most orchids are staked by nurseries which makes them grow straight up).

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Naturally orchids bloom on a schedule that is rarely seen in todays world. In our world orchids are “forced” into bloom by a nursery. Nurseries have a “perfect” growing environment in which humidity, light and temperature are controlled. This environment allows nurseries to produce blooming orchids year round. For example if you buy an orchid in the Summer, and it is in full bloom, it has most likely been forced into bloom by a nursery. Nothing is wrong with a nursery doing this but once you have your own orchids, on a natural cycle, then they will bloom on the schedule of nature which is early Winter and Spring. In the Summer is normally when an orchid will grow roots and leaves. Orchids need to grow new leaves and new roots to store up energy for the upcoming bloom period. See my Season by Season guide post for more information on this.

All of these facts explain why is is very strange for an orchid to grow in your house, in a pot and being staked. This is not to say that they can not be grown in your home (orchids are very hardy and easy to grow) but you must create a “jungle” environment. Meaning you must repot them snug but not smothering (they need to breath), you must give them humidity, and they enjoy a good misting. Please refer to my previous post in regards to potting, humidity , watering and fertilizing on examples on how to create this “jungle” environment in your home!

Hope that helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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What orchid pots should I use?

Orchids naturally grow in the nooks and crannies of trees, in tropical environments (as shown below), or in some cases rooted in the ground. When potting orchids we need to mimic this environment.

There are a lot of options when it comes to potting orchids (clay, plastic, ceramic etc). It is important to the health of your orchid to have the “right pot.”

The right pot should include;

  • An environment that allows their roots to both be “hugged” and “feel” free. You will want to pot your orchids in the smallest pot that the roots will fit in with a little wiggle room for new growth.
  • Orchids also need a lot of humidity, which is typically not found in our homes. The “right” pot helps by holding some moisture around the roots. If your orchids does not have healthy roots then you are in trouble! Orchids show their health through new root and leaf growth. The orchid blooming system is in direct result of their root/leaf system.
  • Drainage, drainage, drainage. Without proper drainage – your orchid WILL die. Orchids do not like their root system to be constantly wet, for example setting them in standing water or potting in a pot without a drainage hole. I have an entire post on this…click here.

The pots I use;

I use clear plastic pots (as shown below). I do this because I can easily see when their roots are thriving and when they are suffering without disturbing their environment. Plus I can place these clear pot in a decorative outer pot when I want to display them.

Clear plastic pots also make it easy to see when to water. In the below picture both orchids are healthy but the one on the right needs to be watered and the one on the left was freshly watered.

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Clear pots not only give you a clear view of their root system but it also helps the plant engage in photosynthesis. Since orchids grow naturally on a tree and are exposed dappled light, clear pots help make photosynthesis through the orchid roots possible.

Clear pots are also easy to clean, disinfect, and reuse. Be careful in reusing pots – they must be totally disinfected. I recommend dipping them in Physan 20 and click here on how to repot your orchid.

Hope that helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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How do I repot an orchid?

It is essential to repot orchids every 1-2 years because they will be growing outside their pots and because the mix you use will eventually break down. I repot every new orchid I have as soon as it drops its last bloom because they have probably been in the same mix for quite some time and they need new fresh mix to be happy and thrive.

Repotting orchids can be fun and easy if you know what to do. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise! If you want to know when to repot, look here. In this post I will tell you how to repot.

Note: I use Sphagnum moss to repot my orchids. I do this because I like to better. You DO NOT have to use moss. You can use a bark mixture (most mixes are made from bark)… This will work just fine.

Items you will need…

  • Bowl for soaking orchid in and a colander to rinse orchid and for new mix
  • Clean environment to work in
  • Sterilized cutting tool
  • Damp potting mix
  • Cinnamon….yes, the ordinary spice from the grocery store. It's a natural fungicide
  • Packing peanuts…not necessary but helpful
  • New fresh pot

Okay here goes….

1. Cut back the former spike that the orchid bloomed from…at the base.

2. Soak your orchid in the sink so it's easy to pull out of its container. I put mine in a bowl of water, in its container, for a few minutes. Then grab the orchid at its base and gently pull it out of its current container. If you CAN'T pull it out I suggest you gently break the current pot.
 

2. After you have gently pulled the orchid from the pot you will want to pull off the the moss/bark/mix from around the roots. Try to get it all because you really want to give it all fresh mix. I do this over the colander so the moss and bark don't clog the drain.

At this time you can get a good look at the roots. They should be green/white and plump with nice healthy tips. You can wash/spray the roots with water to get all the little bits of moss/bark off of them.

3. Next we are going to cut off any dying or rotting roots. Get your sterilized tool (dipped in Physan 20 or alcohol) and simply cut the root just above the rot in the healthy tissue. Some roots will be a slight yellow color, this is okay!! Don't over cut or the plant can't survive! Only cut the dark brown rotting/dying roots. These are often slimy and look gross.

4. This is not a necessary step but I like to let my plants take a dip in a gallon size bucket of watered down Physan 20, in order to kill any bacteria. I normally do this for 1-2 minutes.

5. After they have had their dip, I then sprinkle cinnamon on any freshly cut roots to prevent the spread of bacteria. Cinnamon is a natural fungicide.

6. Now it's time to place it in a new pot. I like clear pots so I can see what is going on with my orchids thougout the year. You will have to assess whether to keep it in the same size pot or go up a size depending on the root size. I have packing peanuts on hand in case the plant is in between sizes. In this case, take the packing peanuts and place them at the bottom of the pot to make it the right size. Orchids seem to like packing peanuts and will often grow right through them! You want an orchid to have enough room to grow but still be in a container that is snug. Orchids are not like normal houseplant in which you pot them in a much bigger container to let them grow…they like being snug (as shown in the picture below).

Note: While repotting it is important keep everything clean so as to not spread any potential disease. You will want to be cautious when reusing pots, they need to be sterilized between plants. Sometimes it is easier to use new pots than it is to try to clean the old pot. I put all my old clear pots through a cycle in my dishwasher before reusing them.

7. Once you have decided on a pot size, simply put the orchid in the pot holding it at the base level of the top of the pot. Then take your potting mix blend and tuck it in and around the roots. You can pack it tight or light depending on how much you want to water and the surroundings of where you keep your plants. The tighter it is packed, the slower it will dry out, and the less water it will require. I normally pack my orchids somewhere in the middle.

Note: All potting mix should be soaked and rinsed off in a colander (or something like that) before use. This will remove any little particles that may have built up and also wets the mix so it's less “shocking” to the orchid upon repotting it.

I use Sphagnum moss (I mostly have Phalaenopsis orchids) and I like to soak it, squeeze out extra moisture and then fluff it up again before putting it the new pot. If you use bark just rinse it off in the colander.

8. For the next day or two keep it out of direct sunlight to let it get acquainted with the new surroundings.

9. I then spray my plants with GET OFF ME! Natural Pest Control Spray and clean my orchid leaves with Wash Me! Natural Leaf Cleaner™ from www.rePotme.com, which keeps the bugs off and cleans the leaves. Orchids LOVE clean leaves!!

10. And don't forget to label it so you know next year what you did as far as this orchid: Went up a size? Went down a size? What did the roots look like? I take notes on mine…it makes it easier when you have 20 plus orchids!

And you're done:)

Here is a helpful video from rePotme…

Check out this tutorial for visuals….

Hope that helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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When should I repot my orchid?

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Repotting orchids can be very fun! I was scared out of my mind to start this process though! I had no idea what I was doing and thought I would, for sure, kill all my orchids. But once I got the hang of it and followed this tutorial, I was fine!! This post explains both the need to repot orchids and when to do so.

Why is it important to repot?

It is important to repot your orchids because they have most likely been in the same mix for quite some time and their mix will eventually break down. And if you got them from a store they have probably been overwatered or underwater and repotting is also the best way to see their roots system. Some of the ones I repotted had horrible roots and would have died if I had not repotted them.

Most websites say to repot all your orchids every 6 months to 2 years depending on the plant because their mix breaks down and smothers the roots. They love fresh new mix. I use the Classic/Imperial Orchid Mixes from rePotme.

Okay so here some pointers, as to when to repot.

Normally in the summer your orchids will loose their blooms, if grown naturally. If you received an orchid in the summer and it is in bloom, it was most likely forced into bloom by a nursery. You should always repot orchids when they go OUT of bloom. This gives them the best chance at a successful growth phase which should create the following flower phase. Orchids will smother if they remain in the same medium too long, they are air plants and need oxygen at their roots. Usually repotting every 2 years is adequate, though many will benefit from annual repotting. Your orchids, once you know them, will tell you when they need repotting…they will either be growing up and out of their pot or will show signs of suffering.
Below are signs that will tell you when to repot –

1. New Orchid: If you get a new orchid that is in bloom, enjoy it and water it gently. AFTER it is done blooming, you should repot. I always repot my new orchids after they have dropped their last bloom because I want to see their root system and evaluate their future care.

Note: If you repot an orchid that is in bloom you will most likely experience bud blast. Bud blast is when an orchid protects itself by dropping its blooms. Repotting an orchid shocks it which can effect any buds and/or blooms.

2. Roots growing out of the pot: If roots are growing up and out of the pot and they are OUT of bloom, it is probably time to move up in pot size and give them fresh mix (the pic at the top of this blog shows an example of an orchid growing out of its pot). Typically you would go up an inch or two in diameter of the pot. If they are in 4” we would go to 5, 5.5 or 6” depending on the root zone size.

Note: Many orchids have ariel roots that are normal and not a sign that an orchid needs a bigger pot. For example Phalaenopsis orchids often have a root that will grow in between their leaves. This is normal.

3. No pot drainage: You will also want to “drop pot” if your orchid is potted in a pot that has no drainage hole. This is one of the only times you will want to repot while your orchid is in bloom. Click this link on why your orchid will die if it has no drainage hole!

Here is a guide as to when orchids are naturally repotted;

  • Brassavola = Winter/Spring
  • Cattleya = Spring/Fall
  • Catasetum = Spring
  • Cymbidium = Spring
  • Dendrobium = Spring
  • Doritaenopsis = Fall/Winter
  • Epidendrum = Spring
  • Encyclia = Spring
  • Laelia = Spring
  • Ludisia = Winter/Spring
  • Lycaste = Spring
  • Masdevallia = Spring
  • Miltonia = Fall
  • Miltoniopsis = Fall
  • Odontoglossom = Winter/Spring
  • Oncidium = Winter/Spring
  • Paphiopedilum = Spring
  • Phalaenopsis = Spring/Summer
  • Phragmipedium= Spring
  • Psychopsis = Spring
  • Sophronitis = Spring
  • Stanhopea = Spring/Fall
  • Vanda = Fall

Hope that helps,

Hannah

Feel free to leave comments or questions.

 

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