Orchid Leaves: Broken/Split

My orchid leaf split/broken? What do I do?

updated 12/11/17

Split Orchids
Some of my orchids have split leaves. They were either damaged before I got them or split from an already small tear (as shown above). They just keep growing with these splits and it does not affect any other growth. It’s slightly ugly but it will have no damaging effect to then orchid. The split leaf will continue to grow from the base but will always look split at the top – it will seal itself off and be kinda crooked. Don’t cut if off. It will still give the orchid energy even though its split.
Torn orchids
I have also had orchids that I dropped (as shown above)!! Yes dropped and broke… if this has happened to you then you know the awful feeling it causes!! I also have broken off the tiny baby leaf that was growing from the center of one my Phalaenopsis orchids… I about died.
I do a couple of things here
  1. I cut if off using sterile scissors to prevent any type of infection right at the tear.
  2. I sprinkle cinnamon (yes the common household spice) on it because it is a natural fungicide to protect it from any potential threat
  3. Then I leave it – as stated above, the leaf will continue to grow (however ugly) and still give the plant nutrients.

Hope that helps,


Feel free to leave comments or questions here and you can always email me at myfirstorchid@gmail.com with pictures of your orchid.

Orchid Blooms

The Different & Unique Parts of Orchid Blooms

Updated 12/11/17

img_1096Orchids are gorgeous and once you get the chance to watch one that is about to bloom, you will know how exciting it is! You will get a chance to see it, day-to-day, slowly open and the final product is amazing!!


Orchid blooms are initially sealed, protectively, with three sepals. Sepals are the outer covering of the bud and are normally green (sometimes they are a dark maroon color) and then change color upon blooming.

img_1083As the bud slowly opens the sepals fold back to show the inner petals of your orchid. Inside the three sepals are three petals. These three petals are not all the same size. There are two large petals on the top left and right and a smaller petal at the bottom forming a lip. This bottom petal is special in that it forms a unique “lip” shape and often has a lot of different colors on it.
Here is an example of a Phalaenopsis sepals and petals

Orchid blooms take time to open. Be patient when waiting for them to bloom and never force them to open!

A common yet frustrating experience is called “bud blast,” which is when you are waiting for you buds to open and instead they shrivel, turn yellow, and fall off. Click on the link for my post on Bud Blast for more information on this subject.


When changing from one potting mix to another your orchids may change color from one year to the next. Many times I bought a pink or yellow orchid and the next year it bloomed white. This is normal and is due to different nutrients in the soil.

Hope that Helps,


Feel free to leave comments or questions here and you can always email me at myfirstorchid@gmail.com with pictures of your orchid.

Orchid Blooms: Why wont my orchid bloom?

My orchid won’t bloom. What is wrong?

Updated 12/11/17

Okay so you successfully repotted your orchid and it is the following season and your orchid will not bloom!! What is up with that? Most likely your orchid is out of balance in either light, roots, growth, season and/or natural stimuli. Here are a few reason why this may happen;

1. Maybe it’s light.

Hands down the most common reason that orchids fail to bloom is insufficient light. My Phalaenopsis orchids are usually happy with the filtered light in my windowsill but many other varieties need more light. Dendrobiums, Oncidiums, Cymbidiums and other types of orchids need much more light. They may need supplementary grow lights, which I don’t use personally…. I just put them in a brighter window. See my link on Orchid Light Requirements.

IMG_1473You can normally tell if your orchid is getting too much or too little light by looking at their leaves. This is an example of what a Phalaenopsis orchid leaf should look like with the correct amount of light. It should be shiny and bright green.



You may ask, “What will your orchid look like with too little light?” The leaves will be a dark forest green instead of bright green. Here is an example of this.




On the other hand unlike a tomato plant, they can’t handle full sun. A bright window has much more shade then if they were outside. Windowsill light is called “dappled light” and works well for most orchids.

You may ask, “What will your orchid look like with too much light?” The leaves will be a light yellow-green instead of a bright green. They can also get sunburned… Both are shown below. You can see the yellow leaf and the scorching on the other leaf, from too much sun (which looks like a big brown spot).

Orchids are also sensitive to household/artificial light in that they can have their natural cycle disrupted by leaving lights on, after dark, in our homes. As much as possible turn the lights off, at night, when your orchids are in your homes.

2. Maybe it’s the roots.

Orchids work in balance between their roots, leaves and blooms. If your roots are healthy you should get good blooms. Many times I have seen a gorgeous orchid with deceptively beautiful leaves and flowers but when I went to repot, I found a horrible root system. In this situation even though the leaves and flowers were pretty the plant would surely die (or would have really suffered) if not repotted.

Horrible root systems are typically linked to over watering and/or lack of repotting from a non draining pot. You orchid roots need A LOT of oxygen to survive and thrive. Without oxygen orchid roots will smother and die. It helps to have pots that you can clearly see their root system (shown below). Your orchid should have healthy green roots, as shown freshly watered below, on the right. In between watering they will look like the picture on the left a slight white/green which is also good.

Orchids are different from normal house plants in that you can’t plant an orchid in normal soil, they need unique orchid soil. I get all my soil/mix from rePotme. And even their mix, which I think is the best, will break down over time and will need to be replaced through repotting. Orchid mix will always need replacing because orchids need fresh mix to thrive. Orchids will not have enough energy to bloom if their roots are suffering. Remember its a balancing act!

3. Maybe it’s new growth.

There are two types of growth patterns for orchids; sympodial and monopodial.

Monopodial orchids; Phalaenopsis (which I have ALOT of) and Vanda are the most common. They grow off a single central stem with leaves on either side. Each leaf should be at least as big as the leaf before it. There should be at least one or two new leaves per year.

You should look for the next bloom spike on monopodial orchids from the base at the underside of a leaf (usually 2 or 3 leaves down from the newest leaf) and on the opposite side as the prior bloom spike.

In order to keep blooming over the years, monopodial orchids such as Phalaenopsis need to put on new leaves each year. Over time, as the orchid grows in size and strength it will send out a bloom spike on each side of the stem simultaneously.

Sympodial orchids; These orchids have multiple growths and should grow 1 or 2 new growths per year. A newly acquired orchid may have 4 or 5 stalks, most with leaves, with the bloom coming from the largest stalk. The “stalks,” on these orchids, are called “pseudobulbs.” If your orchid is thriving you should see a new pseudobulb emerge from the base of the previous pseudobulb near where the orchid bloomed. During the leaf and root growth period (not the bloom period), usually in summer, this new pseudobulb will ideally grow to be at least as big or bigger than the one that just bloomed. The next bloom spike will come from this new pseudobulb. You should be looking for your orchid to grow big, healthy new pseudobulbs because they will be the source of the next season’s bloom. Good light, fertilizer and water are also keys to healthy new growth. Over time, as the orchid grows in size and strength it will grow multiple pseudobulbs which can all spike at the same time creating an abundance of gorgeous flowers!

4. Maybe it’s the season.

Orchids naturally, bloom on their own schedule. Most likely it will not be the time of year it bloomed when you bought it because it was forced (off-cycle) into bloom at nurseries year round. You will find that most orchids grow new leaves and new roots during the summer, grow spikes in the fall and bloom in the winter through spring.

Most orchids will only bloom once a year but some bloom twice or more. Your blooms can last weeks or months while others can last only days. Some basic research about the type of orchid will identify what to expect. My Phalaenopsis orchids usually bloom once per year and their blooms can last for months. Once their flowers have fallen off they may have a couple of extra flowers emerge from the end of the bloom spike and bloom again but this has been rare for me. I also have Dendrobiums, Oncidiums and Cymbidiums – they usually bloom once or maybe twice per year with spectacular blooms that last a month or two.

5. Maybe it’s natural stimuli.

In nature, orchids have natural stimuli that indicate to the plant that the growth season is over and it’s time to bloom. The two main characters of natural season are a dip in temperature in the Fall and gray days resulting in lower light. Some orchids are temperature sensitive and some are light sensitive.

Orchids that are sensitive to temperature are triggered to bloom by the natural cooling that occurs in the fall. This drop in temperature signals to the orchid that the growth period (new roots and new leaves) is coming to an end and it is time to get ready to set a bloom spike, as shown below. If your like me, you grow your orchids inside where the temperature is fairly constant. If this is the case, orchids can be deprived of the natural cues and will be reluctant to bloom. You will need to trick your orchid into realizing its Fall by giving it temperatures in the 60’s for a brief period (1-2 weeks). You can do this by cracking a window near them. I found this very successful with my orchids.


Hope that Helps,


Feel free to leave comments or questions here and you can always email me at myfirstorchid@gmail.com with pictures of your orchid.

Orchid Blooms: Bud Blast

Why are my orchid blooms shriveling and falling off BEFORE they bloom?

updated 12/11/17

A few days ago my orchid that I repotted last year was about to bloom. It had four little buds and they were growing super fast. The first bloom opened halfway and quickly died. And then the next bud turned yellow/shriveled up and FELL OFF! This process is called, “bud blast.”


Bud blast IS anytime a developing orchid bud starts to look shrunken, wilted and/or dry. Bud blast is NOT when an already bloomed flower naturally falls off. Bud blast is extremely frustrating because you are waiting so patiently for your bud to open and then it turns yellow and/or wilted and then falls off. So why does this happen?

If you experience bud blast, in an orchid you just bought, this is probably not a result of anything you’re doing. The most commons trigger of bud blast is a change in environment. Orchids are naturally grown in a jungle like environment. This environment is reproduced in green houses and then shipped to stores. This leads to water, air temperature and light change. This shock of changing their environment can be upsetting to them.

As your new orchid is adjusting to its new environment it may drop some of its buds. This has happened to me quite a few times. Bringing a plant home from a nursery or greenhouse is a MAJOR change in environment. Even the car ride home, if the car is really hot or cold, may shock your orchid. And just think of the massive change in environment if you had an orchid shipped to you!

Unfortunately once bud blast begins to happen, there is little you can do for that single bud. It can’t be revived but you can stop the rest of your orchid buds from experiencing bud blast by figuring out what is causing bud blast on your plant and then adjusting their environment (And don’t be concerned about your whole orchid dying…it’s just the bloom(s)…not the whole orchid).

There are other reasons why your orchids may experience bud blast. Any major change in the orchid’s environment can shock your orchid like moving orchids around your house. For instance let’s say you want to change windows and the new window is over a heat vent or near a really drafty cold window, this may shock them. Orchids are pretty durable but they don’t like major changes in air temperature, light and water. You must stay consistent in where you place them. Find a good spot and keep them there.

Here are the most common reasons for bud blast…. outside of bringing them home.

1. Temperature Change

* Too hot: Your orchid may get too hot in direct sunlight. It also may get too hot if it is placed close to a heating vent. Or left in hot car.

* Too cool: There may be a sudden drop in temperature that makes the buds experience “frost.” For example being too close to a drafty window or too close to an air conditioning vent. Or left in a cold car.

2. Light

* Too much: orchids can get too much light. They need dappled shade and can experience “sunburn” in direct sunlight. A good way to tell this is to feel their leaves and if they are warm to the touch, they are in too direct of light.

* Too little: orchids need light. Many people keep orchids in offices or places in their house where there is no natural sunlight…this will stunt their growth.

3. Water:

* Not enough: If an orchid has been too dry between watering it will withdraw moisture from the buds killing them.

* Too much: The worst thing you can do is give an orchid too much water. Orchids are not normal house plants.

4. Dry air, particularly from nearby air conditioners or heating vents. This follows up on the temperature point but what I mean here is that orchids NEED humidity. Click on my post, “How to Make Humidity Trays.”

5. Being too close to fruit or other ripening plant matter – as plants age (and decay) they release ethylene gas, which can cause the nearby orchid blooms to age and decay as well, or just shrivel. So be careful with orchids in your kitchen.

6. Repotting an orchid causes shock. Doing it while in bloom can cause bud blast because the orchids is getting use to the new environment. I rarely repot an orchid while in bloom unless it’s suffering as shown HERE.

If you are having trouble with your orchid not blooming at all, please click on my post “Why Won’t My Orchid Bloom.”

Hope that Helps,


Feel free to leave comments or questions here and you can always email me at myfirstorchid@gmail.com with pictures of your orchid.

Orchid Blooms: Dying Naturally

Why are my Orchid blooms falling off?
Updated 12/11/17

A lot of people ask me why their orchid blooms are falling off? Most likely your orchid was in bloom for a while before you got it. Orchids naturally drop their blooms after a couple of months. Most orchids bloom once per year, for an extended period of time. The flowers are falling off because they are done blooming. Also at this time the bloom stems dies back as well.

If this is your only concern then your orchid is fine. It’s not dying it just preparing for next years blooms by growing new roots and leaves once all the flowers have dropped and the stems have died back.

Cycle of Orchids

My orchids are on a “natural cycle” meaning I have had them all for many years now and they bloom regularly on the same natural cycle. Normally this is between the end of November and sometime ending near March/April. If I were to buy an orchid from lets say April thru November (in full bloom) it would have been forced into bloom by a nursery. Nurseries can do this because they create a moderated environment that reproduces natures cues synthetically thus forcing them into bloom year round. Once the orchid they forced into bloom actually blooms they sell it. You buy it and after the blooms fall that orchid will not normally bloom again for one year.

Orchids typically only bloom once a year because they are in a cycle. This cycle goes like this…

  1. bloom
  2. blooms fall off naturally
  3. orchid grows new leaves and new roots to support upcoming bloom season
  4. spikes starts to grow from an entirely different spot from the original stem/spike
  5. it bloom again and the cycle repeats

Orchids work in this balance because they are constantly switching their energy from one cycle to the next.

Click on my “Season to Season Guide” post which further explains this.

This is what I would recommend doing to your orchid now…

  1. Wait to cut the stem back until all the flowers have fallen off.
  2. I would then repot it to give it fresh new mix (nutrients).

Please click on my posts on “Cutting an Orchid Stem Back” and “How to Repot an Orchid” for further help.

Hope that Helps,


Feel free to leave comments or questions here and you can always email me at myfirstorchid@gmail.com with pictures of your orchid.

Orchid Blooms: Dyed

Updated 12/11/17

Orchid naturally bloom in the most beautiful colors. Which is why injecting orchids, or any other plant, with dye is something I just don’t understand.

What makes me particuly frustrated is that as orchid consumers (and mostly beginners) we are buying these orchids without knowing they are dyed and then left with the consequences which can be pretty severe (as shown below). If you own one and stumble upon this post – I want you to know that this is not your fault!

I have found that the most common color orchids are dyed is blue (which is shown above in various stages of dye). And the reason I am posting this at all is that I had a really sweet girl email me the following question;

“I got a dyed blue orchid and all the leaves fell off and now it’s seeping liquid out of all the nodes. It is still in bloom but what do I do?”

Here are the pictures she sent me. The first picture shows the upper parts of the leaves had completely fallen off despite the fact that they looked very healthy. You can see in the second picture the blue dye at the bottom of the leaf. In the third photo you can actually see the dyed liquid seeping out of the orchid nodes. The final pictures all show the blooms still present but in various stages of falling off.

To be honest… I had no idea what was going on with this orchid (this was a few years ago). I am normally pretty good at answering questions from viewers (based on all the helpful advice I have gotten) but this one stumped me. First, I did not understand how every leaf could fall of an orchid and it could still “seem” to be alive. Second, I have NEVER seen liquid seeping out of orchid nodes.

So I asked one of my orchid gurus at Garden Heights Nursery (St. Louis MO), Barb Giblin. The following is what she said in a nut shell –

“This is a technique some of the growers have come up with to make the plants sell better because they look so different. We haven’t seen evidence that it hurts the plants (until NOW), but the reality is that the blue color will not reappear in future blooms. The flowers will return to their natural white color in the future. No special care is needed, but try to avoid getting the dye on you! It is hard to wash off apparently (which is a strange thought because if it’s hard to wash off, then how is it good for an orchid?).

She said whatever they dyed it with, they either used too much or it was toxic. This is probably the cause of the leaves falling off (leaves typically fall off if an orchid if it is over watered and/or if water pools at the top of leaves and it rotted) and the reason it’s seeping liquid. The plant is literally expelling extra toxic dye in an attempt to save itself!!

She said there is hope for these plant if you want it to try to revive it.

Do this;
  • Cut the bloom stem off at its base. This will save its energy and help transfer any energy to the surviving plant.
  • Repot it immediately in straight charcoal to pull all the toxics out of the crown and roots. If you don’t have charcoal then repot it in normal orchid mix. Once the toxins seem to be under control you can repot it normal orchid mix.

I hope this post helps if you are in a similar predicament and if not maybe it will discourage you from buying dyed plants in the future.


Feel free to leave comments or questions here and you can always email me at myfirstorchid@gmail.com with pictures of your orchid.

Orchid Health: Bugs

Help! My orchid has bugs (scales, mealybugs, mites and aphids)! What should I do?

Updated 12/11/17

Below is a picture of mealy bugs and scales from a far and up close.

To prevent pests

  • Apply GET OFF ME! ever time you water your orchid and you can put up sticky traps near your orchids. If you don’t have this you can sprinkle a bit of cinnamon near the base of your plant.
  • Putting your orchids on humidity trays helps prevent pest also because pest really like dry environments (normally found in our homes).
  • Also don’t allow your orchids to be near fresh fruit, in say your kitchen, this causes both flies and the citrus can deteriorate your orchid.

To TREAT pest

Okay, so you have found really gross little bugs on your orchid! Pests can also be difficult to control indoors. If you have pets or children it can also be disconcerting to use pesticides to control these issues.

Don’t panic! The best defense and offense I have found is GET OFF ME! Pest Control Spray made from cinnamon, applied to the affected areas, which I purchased from www.rePotme.com. This is a safe substance to use indoors.

Here’s what to do;

1. REMOVE YOUR PLANT FROM OTHER PLANTS – you don’t want bugs to move from one plant to another.

2. Wash pests off with water/mild soap solution and pick off bugs.

  • I use Washme from http://www.repotme.com to wash leaves if you don’t have this use FEW drops of mild soap detergent on the plant (don’t use too much soap) mixed with a bunch of water and spray it all over the plant (underside of leaves etc.) and then re-wash with clean fresh wet paper towel.
  • Don’t reuse the paper towels – as they have bugs on them.
  • You can also use the spray nozzle (if you have it) on your kitchen sink to spray off any extra bugs and mild soap solution.

3.  Make a solution of 50% rubbing alcohol/water and dab/rub it on the pests. Or for tricky spots you can use straight rubbing alcohol but dab it after with a paper towel and/or rinse it with water so it’s doesn’t burn the plant when the alcohol evaporates. I recently burned all my leaves by using straight alcohol and not following my own advice. 

  • You can use a Q tip dipped in rubbing alcohol to get into the hard to reach spots.
  • I really love to use diluted Neem oil in between alcohol solution days. This works by suffocating the bugs and is also used as a leaf cleaner.
  • You can also spray the 50% solution all over your plant (underside of leaves etc.). Again rinse after. 
  • Repeat this every few days / once a week until pest are gone. 

4. Soaking the entire plant, in water, helps too because the bugs can’t breathe. If you do this then you should repot your orchid to remove all the infected bug area.

Hope that helps,


Feel free to leave comments or questions here and you can always email me at myfirstorchid@gmail.com with pictures of your orchid.

Orchid Health: Rot

Help, my orchid has crown/root rot. What should I do?

Updated 12/11/17


Rot on orchids typically happens when water is trapped at their base in a non-draining pot and/or they are overwatered. Most orchids come in two pots with the inner pot having drainage and the outer pot not having drainage. This can effect both the crown and the roots causing rot. Please stop and click here before you proceed if this is the case with your orchid.

A lot of times we see signs of root rot in the leaves before we see it in the crown as shown below.

Preventing root/crown rot
  1. Make sure your orchid is potted in a free draining pot. Please click here.
  2. Only water your orchid when is DRY.
  3. Also never let your orchid sit in water… like you would a normal houseplant. Orchids are not like normal houseplants in that they HATE having their roots sitting in water. In nature they would typically be growing off a tree and experience natural rain forest water trickle through them (you can click on my post on Orchids Growing in Nature).
  4. The leaves of these types of orchids act as a syphon for water and because of this water can gather/pool at the base of their leaves. Make sure that when you water your orchids, especially ones like Phaleanopsis, that you take a paper towel and soak up any left over water that has pooled at their leaf base.
  5. Make sure there is air movement around your orchids. Most homes have air movement from the general air conditioning but a fan or an open window can help.

Treating root/crown rot

I use Physan 20 to treat rot but if you don’t have this then do the following;

  1. Treat the crown rot with full strength hydrogen peroxide. Pour it over the crown of your orchid.
  2. Repeat every 2-3 days until the rot no longer fizzes and bubbles with the hydrogen peroxide application.
  3. Then sprinkle cinnamon (yes, the regular spice from your cabinet – it’s a natural fungicide) to treat the fungus.

Hope that helps,


Feel free to leave comments or questions here and you can always email me at myfirstorchid@gmail.com with pictures of your orchid.

Orchid Health: Fungus

My orchid has fungus on it. What should I do?

Updated 12/11/17

20111113-210816.jpg20111114-143708.jpgFungus & Bacteria on Orchids

To prevent fungus & bacteria

Apply a solution of GET OFF ME! spray. This solution is a natural water based cinnamon herbal infusion with a few drops of baby shampoo as a surfactant. It’s used to control common insect pests on orchids while also protecting the plant from fungus and bacterial problems. I spray this on my orchids every time I water them. If you don’t have this you can;

1. Make a solution of

2. Then sprinkle cinnamon (yes the common spice in your cabinet it’s a natural fungicide) on the base of your orchid.

To TREAT fungus & bacteria

Okay, so you have found either fungus and/or bacteria or signs of rot (such as dark slimy spots) growing on your precious orchid leaves! This literally just happened to me last week with an orchid I saved.

Don’t panic! The best defense, I have found, against all of this is Physan 20 applied to the affected areas, which I purchased from www.rePotme.com.

Here is what to do…

1. Separate your orchid from the rest to prevent the spread of disease.

2. Apply Physan 20 to the affected area. Physan 20 is typically poured over the area of the plant you wish to treat but you can pour through the mix for extreme situations.

How to make a batch of Physan 20: mix at the rate of one tablespoon per gallon of water. You must use the batch within hours of making it up because it loses its effectiveness after that. You can use it when you spot trouble or to ward off trouble by applying maybe once a month or so.

If you don’t have Physan 20 then pour full strength Hydrogen Peroxide on the affected area. Repeat every 2 to 3 days until its stops fizzing. You can also make a mixture of this with a FEW drops of mild soap detergent and spray it on the affected area. Don’t use too much soap!

Hope that Helps,


Feel free to leave comments or questions here and you can always email me at myfirstorchid@gmail.com with pictures of your orchid.

Orchid Health: Light Requirements

How much light/sun does my orchid need?

Updated 12/10/17

Orchids have a wide variety of light needs depending on their species. Understanding the appropriate amount of light for your orchid is essential to their health. Inadequate light is one of the major reasons that orchids do not bloom. Orchids require different light then normal house plants. They do not require the kind of bright direct sunshine that let’s say a tomato plant does.

Too little light can make their leaves turn a dark green color which is not good, their leaves should be a light to medium green color. The picture on the left shows a healthy orchid leaf. The one on the right shows an orchid with too little sun.

Too much light can scorch or “sunburn” their leaves (as shown below). A good way to tell if your orchid is getting too much light is to touch their leaves and feel for heat. If your orchid leaves feel hot they need to be moved to shadier spot.
Orchid light requirements range from “low light” to “high light.” I briefly described the difference below.
  • Low Light = two hours of indirect sunlight per day. These plants can be grown indoors under indirect light or outdoors under shade.
  • Medium Light = four hours of indirect sunlight per day preferably either outside or by a moderately sunny windows or under lights would be suitable.
  • High Light = six hours of indirect sunlight per day preferably in bright, sunny window or outdoors would be ideal for these plants.

“High light” level orchids enjoy being outside in the summer (with dappled shade). This is the easiest way, to give them enough light to bloom. If you are keeping your “high light” orchids indoors, you may find that they will not bloom reliably without some sort of supplemental light unless they are in a very bright sun room or greenhouse. I have been told that fluorescent bulbs (with broad spectrum bulbs) work well with these types of orchids, as well as High Intensity Discharge (HID) lights…shown below. Remember, as stated in my previous post that in nature orchids get natural light cues, so you will need to keep them on a schedule as the days get longer and then get shorter.


“Low light” and “Medium light” orchids will not be happy far from a light source but are easy to grow in a filtered sunny widow. My Phalaenopsis orchids are low to medium light orchids and they do very well in my window seat (shown below).

Below you will find the light requirements recommended by the American Orchid Society. You can figure out what orchid you have by looking at your plant’s label and determine what genus it is (which is the first name on the tag). How much light your plant will require will depend on the type of orchid it is.
  • Cattleya –Medium to High
  • Cymbidium –Medium to High
  • Dendrobium –Medium to High
  • Masdevallia –Low to Medium
  • Miltonia –Medium
  • Odontoglossum –Medium
  • Oncidium –Medium to High
  • Paphiopedilum –Low to Medium
  • Phalaenopsis –Low to Medium
  • Vanda –Medium to High

Note on leaves:

Hope that helps,


Feel free to leave comments or questions here and you can always email me at myfirstorchid@gmail.com with pictures of your orchid.