Why are there roots growing out of the top of my orchid plant? And why do they look dead?
Roots that grow above the surface of an orchid are called aerial roots and are not super attractive (in my opinion). They can look whitish grey and never seem to look super green like the roots that are buried.
It is easy to think they are dead or something is wrong with your orchid but this is just how they look. They are normal and healthy. In nature an orchid tries to grab onto the trees and shrubs around it – this is why they grow that way. Aerial roots also help with photosynthesis and they absorb moisture from the air. This helps the orchid produce healthy leaves, roots and blooms. For this reason they should NOT be cut off.
Note: it's easy to confuse an aerial root with a spike. Here is a link on the difference.
Burying aerial roots:
A ton of aerial roots is one sign that your orchids need to be repotted. Especially when they are super overgrown as shown in the pictures above. When orchids are this overgrown you should be able to bury some of them when you repot your orchid.
NOTE: You may not be able to bury all of them – some of mine are growing in between leaves and those I leave alone. Shown below…
Back to burying the other ones: When you do this you have to be extra careful not to break them off because they can be quite brittle.
When I go to repot and I need to bury aerial roots I soak the entire orchid in a bucket of water for a bit and the roots become a little more malleable so you can bury them. If you just force them then they WILL break off. And even though aerial roots can be ugly they still provide energy and sustenance to the orchid so I like to keep them. Once the roots are little more malleable you can gently guide them down into the pot and cover them with bark or moss. If one or two break then it's not the end of the world.
*Above two picture is one of my Phalaenopsis orchid spiking. You can see the small buds growing.
If you have successfully repotted your orchid (it's on a natural schedule) and Fall has arrived you should be anxiously awaiting for it to spike. By “spike” I mean the beginning of the shoot that becomes the bloom.
The big question is it a SPIKE or is it a ROOT?
It is very easy to confuse a root for a spike. But once you see a real spike you will not confuse them again! They look like little “mittens” or little hands, as shown in the picture above and will grow upwards towards light. And easy way to remember this…it's cold out (fall) look for “mittens”
You should expect to see these little “mittens” on your orchid by Thanksgiving. Spikes emerge from the same area of the plant as some ariel roots which is why it easy to confuse them. In the picture below you can see both a root and a spike. Can you tell the difference? The spike is bright green, aiming upwards and has that classic ” mitten” shape…it's in the middle. The root is growing lower and is smaller and has a dusty green/white color.
Here is another example…In this picture the spike is again bright green, growing up and has the mitten shape. While the roots, below it, are again a dusty green/white color.
In this last pic we see a better picture of the roots. You can see a big, more established, spike/shoot on the left – which is growing behind the stick and is probably in bloom. This orchid has a bunch of ariel roots, they are growing all around this pot. In this case the orchid needs to be repotted soon to push some of these roots down in the soil.
Each spike on a orchid will have at least a few nodes going up the spike prior to the blooms. A node, shown below, looks like a little half envelope going up the branch and each node has the potential to branch off and have it's own bloom!
Make sure you have stakes on hand to hold up your new spike. For spiking tips go here.
Help, my orchid has crown/root rot! What should I do?
Rot on orchids typically happens when water “pools” on an orchid. This can happen in their crown (where leaves are growing) and at their roots. It is very important to take care of this immediately because this can kill an orchid! A lot of times we see signs of root rot in the leaves before we see it in the crown as shown below.
Preventing root/crown rot
The leaves of these types of orchids act as a syphon for water and because of this water will gather/pool at the base of their leaves. Make sure that when you water your orchids, especially ones like Phaleanopsis, that you take a paper towel and soak up any let over water that has pooled at their leaf base.
Rot in orchid roots is usually caused by overwatering and also the common mistake of letting an orchid sit in water…like you would a normal houseplant. Orchids are not like normal houseplants in that they HATE having their roots sitting in water. In nature they would typically be growing off a tree and experience natural rain forest water trickle through them. Click on this post – for proper watering techniques.
Make sure there is air movement around your orchids. Either a fan or near an open window.
Treating root/crown rot
I use Physan 20 to treat rot but if you don't have this then do the following;
Treat the crown rot with full strength hydrogen peroxide. Pour it over the crown of your orchid.
Repeat every 2-3 days until the rot no longer fizzes and bubbles with the hydrogen peroxide application.
Then sprinkle cinnamon (yes, the regular spice from your cabinet) to treat the fungus.
Apply a solution of GET OFF ME! spray. This solution is a natural water based cinnamon herbal infusion with a few drops of baby shampoo as a surfactant. It's used to control common insect pests on orchids while also protecting the plant from fungus and bacterial problems. I spray this on my orchids every time I water them. If you don't have this then sprinkle cinnamon (yes the common spice in your cabinet) on the base of your orchid.
To TREAT fungus & bacteria
Okay, so you have found either fungus and/or bacteria or signs of rot (such as dark slimy spots) growing on your precious orchid leaves! This literally just happened to me last week with an orchid I saved.
Don't panic! The best defense, I have found, against all of this is Physan 20 applied to the affected areas, which I purchased from www.rePotme.com.
Here is what to do…
1. Separate your orchid from the rest to prevent the spread of disease.
2. Apply Physan 20 to the affected area. Physan 20 is typically poured over the area of the plant you wish to treat but you can pour through the mix for extreme situations.
How to make a batch of Physan 20: mix at the rate of one tablespoon per gallon of water. You must use the batch within hours of making it up because it loses its effectiveness after that. You can use it when you spot trouble or to ward off trouble by applying maybe once a month or so.
If you don't have Physan 20 then pour full strength Hydrogen Peroxide on the affected area. Repeat every 2 to 3 days until its stops fizzing. You can also make a mixture of this with a FEW drops of mild soap detergent and spray it on the affected area. Don't use too much soap!
Apply GET OFF ME! ever time you water your orchid and you can put up sticky traps near your orchids. If you don't have this you can sprinkle a bit of cinnamon near the base of your plant.
Putting your orchids on humidity trays helps prevent pest also because pest really like dry environments (normally found in our homes).
Also don't allow your orchids to be near fresh fruit, in say your kitchen, this causes both flies and the citrus can deteriorate your orchid.
To TREAT pest
Okay, so you have found really gross little bugs on your orchid! Pests can also be difficult to control indoors. If you have pets or children it can also be disconcerting to use pesticides to control these issues.
Don't panic! The best defense I have found is GET OFF ME! Pest Control Spray made from cinnamon, applied to the affected areas, which I purchased from www.rePotme.com. This is a safe substance to use indoors.
Here's what to do;
REMOVE YOUR PLANT FROM OTHER PLANTS – you don't want bugs to move from one plant to another.
Wash pests off with water/mild soap solution and pick off bugs.
I use Washme from http://www.repotme.com to wash leaves if you don't have this use FEW drops of mild soap detergent on the plant (don't use too much soap) mixed with a bunch of water and spray it all over the plant (underside of leaves etc.) and then rewash with clean fresh wet paper towel.
Don't reuse the paper towels – as they have bugs on them.
You can also use the spray nozel (if you have it) on your kitchen sink to spray off any extra bugs and mild soap solution.
Make a solution of 50% rubbing alcohol/water and dab/rub it on the pests.
You can use a Q tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol or toothbrush dipped in a pesticide like Malathion, Orthene or Safer Soap.
You can also spray this solution mixed with a pesticide all over your plant (underside of leaves etc.).
Repeat this every few days / once a week until pest are gone.
I use GET OFF ME!, to rid the eggs and prevent further spread of pests. I spray this on my orchid base each time I water my orchids.
Soaking the entire plant, in water, helps too because the bugs can't breathe. If you do this then you should repot your orchid to remove all the infected bug area.
Orchids naturally grow in the nooks and crannies of trees, in tropical environments (as shown below), or in some cases rooted in the ground. When potting orchids we need to mimic this environment.
There are a lot of options when it comes to potting orchids (clay, plastic, ceramic etc). It is important to the health of your orchid to have the “right pot.”
The right pot should include;
An environment that allows their roots to both be “hugged” and “feel” free. You will want to pot your orchids in the smallest pot that the roots will fit in with a little wiggle room for new growth.
Orchids also need a lot of humidity, which is typically not found in our homes. The “right” pot helps by holding some moisture around the roots. If your orchids does not have healthy roots then you are in trouble! Orchids show their health through new root and leaf growth. The orchid blooming system is in direct result of their root/leaf system.
Drainage, drainage, drainage. Without proper drainage – your orchid WILL die. Orchids do not like their root system to be constantly wet, for example setting them in standing water or potting in a pot without a drainage hole. I have an entire post on this…click here.
The pots I use;
I use clear plastic pots (as shown below). I do this because I can easily see when their roots are thriving and when they are suffering without disturbing their environment. Plus I can place these clear pot in a decorative outer pot when I want to display them.
Clear plastic pots also make it easy to see when to water. In the below picture both orchids are healthy but the one on the right needs to be watered and the one on the left was freshly watered.
Clear pots not only give you a clear view of their root system but it also helps the plant engage in photosynthesis. Since orchids grow naturally on a tree and are exposed dappled light, clear pots help make photosynthesis through the orchid roots possible.
Clear pots are also easy to clean, disinfect, and reuse. Be careful in reusing pots – they must be totally disinfected. I recommend dipping them in Physan 20 and click here on how to repot your orchid.
It is essential to repot orchids every 1-2 years because they will be growing outside their pots and because the mix you use will eventually break down. I repot every new orchid I have as soon as it drops its last bloom because they have probably been in the same mix for quite some time and they need new fresh mix to be happy and thrive.
Repotting orchids can be fun and easy if you know what to do. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise! If you want to know when to repot, look here. In this post I will tell you how to repot.
Note: I use Sphagnum moss to repot my orchids. I do this because I like to better. You DO NOT have to use moss. You can use a bark mixture (most mixes are made from bark)… This will work just fine.
Items you will need…
Bowl for soaking orchid in and a colander to rinse orchid and for new mix
Clean environment to work in
Sterilized cutting tool
Damp potting mix
Cinnamon….yes, the ordinary spice from the grocery store. It's a natural fungicide
Packing peanuts…not necessary but helpful
New fresh pot
Okay here goes….
1. Cut back the former spike that the orchid bloomed from…at the base.
2. Soak your orchid in the sink so it's easy to pull out of its container. I put mine in a bowl of water, in its container, for a few minutes. Then grab the orchid at its base and gently pull it out of its current container. If you CAN'T pull it out I suggest you gently break the current pot.
2. After you have gently pulled the orchid from the pot you will want to pull off the the moss/bark/mix from around the roots. Try to get it all because you really want to give it all fresh mix. I do this over the colander so the moss and bark don't clog the drain.
At this time you can get a good look at the roots. They should be green/white and plump with nice healthy tips. You can wash/spray the roots with water to get all the little bits of moss/bark off of them.
3. Next we are going to cut off any dying or rotting roots. Get your sterilized tool (dipped in Physan 20 or alcohol) and simply cut the root just above the rot in the healthy tissue. Some roots will be a slight yellow color, this is okay!! Don't over cut or the plant can't survive! Only cut the dark brown rotting/dying roots. These are often slimy and look gross.
4. This is not a necessary step but I like to let my plants take a dip in a gallon size bucket of watered down Physan 20, in order to kill any bacteria. I normally do this for 1-2 minutes.
5. After they have had their dip, I then sprinkle cinnamon on any freshly cut roots to prevent the spread of bacteria. Cinnamon is a natural fungicide.
6. Now it's time to place it in a new pot. I like clear pots so I can see what is going on with my orchids thougout the year. You will have to assess whether to keep it in the same size pot or go up a size depending on the root size. I have packing peanuts on hand in case the plant is in between sizes. In this case, take the packing peanuts and place them at the bottom of the pot to make it the right size. Orchids seem to like packing peanuts and will often grow right through them! You want an orchid to have enough room to grow but still be in a container that is snug. Orchids are not like normal houseplant in which you pot them in a much bigger container to let them grow…they like being snug (as shown in the picture below).
Note: While repotting it is important keep everything clean so as to not spread any potential disease. You will want to be cautious when reusing pots, they need to be sterilized between plants. Sometimes it is easier to use new pots than it is to try to clean the old pot. I put all my old clear pots through a cycle in my dishwasher before reusing them.
7. Once you have decided on a pot size, simply put the orchid in the pot holding it at the base level of the top of the pot. Then take your potting mix blend and tuck it in and around the roots. You can pack it tight or light depending on how much you want to water and the surroundings of where you keep your plants. The tighter it is packed, the slower it will dry out, and the less water it will require. I normally pack my orchids somewhere in the middle.
Note: All potting mix should be soaked and rinsed off in a colander (or something like that) before use. This will remove any little particles that may have built up and also wets the mix so it's less “shocking” to the orchid upon repotting it.
I use Sphagnum moss (I mostly have Phalaenopsis orchids) and I like to soak it, squeeze out extra moisture and then fluff it up again before putting it the new pot. If you use bark just rinse it off in the colander.
8. For the next day or two keep it out of direct sunlight to let it get acquainted with the new surroundings.
10. And don't forget to label it so you know next year what you did as far as this orchid: Went up a size? Went down a size? What did the roots look like? I take notes on mine…it makes it easier when you have 20 plus orchids!
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